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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.248



[For the purposes of illustration, I have included the rules for SchH I
trials]

SCHUTZHUND A

The Schutzhund A Examination is composed of phases B and C of the SchH I
Examination.  The conduct of the examination is the same except that the
tracking phase is omitted, and the maximum possible score is 200 points.
This training degree is not accepted under the rules for conformation
shows, breeding requirements or breed surveys.

SCHUTZHUND I

Phase A - Tracking

Tracking a 350-400 pace long trail at least 20 minutes old with two
articles on a 10 meter tracking lead, or tracking without a lead.  The
track has two 90 degree turns.  The handler lays the track as
indicated by the judge, placing the first article in the middle of the
first or second leg without interrupting the pace or changing the
stride.  The second article is deposited at the end of the track.

The handler reports to the judge with the dog, and indicates whether
the articles will be picked up or pointed out.  The dog and handler
proceed to the scent pad at the beginning of the track. Prior to
tracking, and during the entire tracking phase, all force or pressure
is to be avoided.  At the start, the dog must be given sufficient time
to absorb the scent.

The dog must begin quietly and pick up the scent with a deep nose. As
soon as the dog begins to track, the handler must stop and let the
length of the 10 meter leash slip through his/her hands.  The handler
now follows at the distance of 10 meters, whether tracking with a lead
or without.

Immediately upon finding an article, the dog must convincingly stop,
stand, sit, or pick up the article, or return it to the handler.  If
pointing out, the dog must lie, sit or stay.  By lifting the article
high in the air, the handler indicates to the judge that it has been
found.  The tracking leash is loosely held as the dog and handler
continue on the track. The articles are presented to the presiding
judge after completion of the track.

A faulty start, excessive circling on corners, continued praise,
faulty picking up or pointing of the articles, dropping articles,
pronounced quartering, high nose, urinating or defecating on the
track, or hunting mice, etc. will be penalized.

Phase B - Obedience

Heeling on Leash and Impartiality - 15 Points

Starting from the basic heeling position, the dog and handler proceed
for 40 paces without stopping. A turnabout is performed, and after
10-15 paces a running heel followed by a slow heel, each of about 10
paces, are demonstrated. During a normal pace at least one left turn,
one right turn, and one left turnabout must be performed.  A halt must
be performed after the turns and while the handler is moving straight.
A voice command is permitted only when starting the exercise, or when
changing pace. The judge will direct the handler through a group of at
least 4 people, amd the handler is required to stop at least once in
the group. The group is expected to mingle about.

Heeling off Leash - 20 Points

When requested by the judge, the leash will be removed while in the
basic position.  The handler moves through the group with the dog
freely heeling.  After demonstrating ar least one halt, the handler and
dog leave the group and perform the heeling exercises that were
performed on leash.  While the dog and handler are performing the
off-leash exercises, at least 2 gun shots (6 - 9 mm) are to be fired
(not while moving in the group) and the dog must remain indifferent to
the noise. Special emphasis is placed on indifference to the gun.  If
the judge deems the dog to be insecure or should the dog run from the
shot, the judge may excuse the dog from further participation.

Sit Exercise - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line.  After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to sit - the dog should quickly come to a sit
position.  The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces without
interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to face the
dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler returns to the right
side of the dog.

Down with Recall - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line.  After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to down - the dog should quickly come to a
down position.  The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces
without interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to
face the dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler shall recall
the dog.  The dog should come to the handler with a spirited and swift
motion and sit close in front.  Upon a "heel" command, the dog should
quickly come to a sit position next to the handler.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler on Level Ground - 10
Points

The dog sitting freely next to the handler should, when given the
voice command, quickly move toward the article tossed approximately 10
paces away. The dog must immediately and quickly bring the article
back to the handler, and sit close in front. The dog must hold the
article until, after a brief pause, the handler issues the command to
let go.  After the command to heel, the dog should come quickly to the
heel position.  In place of an article belonging to the handler, a
dumbbell can be used -- however, balls, toys, etc. are not considered
personal articles.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler over a 1 Meter High and
1.5 Meter Wide Brush Hurdle - 15 Points

The handler assumes a position at an acceptable distance in front of
the hurdle while the dog sits freely next to the handler.  The article
is tossed over the hurdle.  Upon voice command, the dog shall clear
the hurdle without touching it, pick up the article, return over the
jump and sit closely in front of the handler. The article must be held
by the dog until the handler removes it with the command to let go.

Go Ahead and Down - 10 Points

When requested by the judge, the handler and freely heeling dog
proceed a few paces in the designated direction.  The command to "go
out" should be executed by simultaneously stopping and lifting the arm
to indicate direction.  The dog must move at a fast pace at least 25
paces.  The dog must lay down quickly upon voice command. At the
request of the judge, the handler proceeds to pick up the dog by
moving to the right side of the dog, commanding the dog to sit, and
then putting on the leash.

Long Down Under Distraction

Prior to the start of the obedience exercises of another dog, the
handler commands the dog into a down position at a spot designated by
the judge.  The handler moves approximately 40 paces away within sight
of the dog. The handler remains quiet with his back to the dog.  The
dog must remain in the down position without additional influences
from the handler until the other dog concludes the first 6 exercises.
The finish will be like the Go Ahead and Down, above.

Phase C - Protection

Search for the Helper - 5 Points

The helper is hidden in a position 40 paces away so that the dog must
make searching passes to the right and left, or vice versa.  The
handler and dog must be out of sight when the helper moves into the
hiding place.  At the request of the judge, the handler releases the
dog and gives the command to search towards the empty hiding place,
then towards the helper. The command "here" and the dog's name may be
used.

Hold and Bark - 10 Points

When the dog reaches the helper it should immediately and continuously
bark.  The dog should not bother the helper by gripping or bumping.
The handler is to remain at a distance of approximately 25 paces. When
the judge indicates, the handler will pick up the dog and hold it
securely so that the helper can leave the hiding place.

Attack - 35 Points

A helper is directed to proceed to another hiding place at least 50
paces away.  Upon directions from the judge, the handler will proceed
with a free heeling dog towards the hiding place.  The handler is now
attacked from the front by the helper, who suddenly comes out of the
hiding place.  No contact is permitted between the handler and helper.
The dog must immediately attack and demonstrate a firm grip.  The dog
will be struck with a flexible, padded stick -- two blows will be
given on the flanks, thighs, or withers.  Encouragement may be given
via vocal command.  When requested by the judge, the helper stops the
aggression.  The dog must independently release, or release his grip
upon receiving the command to "out".  After receiving the command from
the judge, the handler will hold the dog by the collar.

Pursuit and Hold - 50 Points

The helper makes threatening gestures and runs away.  After he has
gone about 50 paces, the handler sends the dog toward the helper and
remains standing still. The judge will instruct the helper to turn
around and run toward the dog when the dog is about 30 paces away.
Using aggressive and threatening motions, the helper will run toward
the dog.  When the dog has taken a firm grip, the helper will press
the dog briefly without applying the stick, then cease resistance.
The dog must release, either independently, or after receiving the
command to "out".  After the dog has let go, the handler will remain
standing without influencing the dog.  Upon a signal from the judge,
the handler will approach the dog and helper at a normal pace.  The
handler will order the helper to step back from the dog, and order the
dog to lay down.  The helper will be searched and disarmed before
transport to the judge.  The dog will be on leash during transport.
The handler will leave the area with the dog on leash.

The fighting drive, including courage and hardness, is to be
scrutinized during the entire protection phase.  This will be rated as
pronounced, sufficient, or insufficient.

Only energetic fighting and a firm grip will allow a full score.  A
dog that does not release after one command to let go, or who is not
under control of the handler, or who fails any exercise of the
protection phase cannot pass the test.  If a dog fails a single
exercise, it will be excused from the remainder of the phase.  No
deductions are made for a dog that alertly circles the helper.

2.  References:

Barwig, Susan.  _Schutzhund_.  Quality Press, Englewood, CO.  1978.


I.  Police Dogs.

This is a very general term.  Technically, any dog working for a
police or sheriff department is a "police dog," this includes
narcotic, evidence, tracking, trailing, and attack dogs.  SAR and
narcotic and evidence search have already been covered.  The popular
notion of the term "police dog" refers to "attack" dogs kept by law
enforcement departments.  Dogs can do more than one job; there is no
reason that a dog couldn't trail/track people, sniff out narcotics,
and locate arson material.  But attack dogs are usually used only for
chasing suspects and bringing them down.  Schutzhund training shows
that attack training does not exclude other abilities, but for
whatever reasons, this is not often done (Schutzhund training itself
is difficult; the Schutzhund section describes the difficulty of
finding suitable candidates for the training).  There are often
liability concerns; an "attack" dog will be viewed unfavorably by most
judges and juries if it attacked someone, even justifiably, while
doing something else.

There are no national or even state-wide standards for these dogs.
Many are Schutzhund trained.  Some are well trained, others are not.
German Shepherd Dogs are commonly used, but any large breed with
energy and drive can be used: Bouvier des Flandres, Dobermann
Pinschers, Malinois, Rottweilers and others have also been used as
police dogs.

The use of police dogs, in an organized fashion, began in the US in
1907 with South Orange, New Jersey, and New York Police Departments.
These were followed by departments in Glen Ridge, NJ (1910), Detroit
(1917), Berkeley, CA (1930), Pennsylvania State Police (1931), Royal
Canadian Mounted Police K-9 Section (1937), and the Connecticut State
Police (1944).  Many other departments have since created programs of
their own to utilize dogs.  This is the reason for the lack of uniform
standards across the country, as each department makes its own.

For a detailed reference, including history, try:

Chapman, Samuel G. _Police Dogs in America_.  Bureau of Government
Research, 1979.

For information on training dogs for different types of police work
(but not attack or protection), see:

Tolhurst, Bill.  _The Police Textbook for Dog Handlers_.  Sharp
Printing, 3477 Lockport Road, Sanborn, NY 14132.  1991.  (Paperback,
89 pages.)
  This book is only available from the author.  $14 plus $2 shipping
  and handling.  Write to Bill Tolhurst, 383 Willow Street, Lockport,
  NY 14094.  The most comprehensive training book available.  Contains
  information not available from any other source.  Contains updated
  information covered by the original National Police Bloodhound
  Training Manual (1977).  Plus: how to train a land-cadaver dog, a
  water-cadaver dog, an article-search dog, an accelerant (arson) dog.
  Information on the Scent Transfer Machine, about radio-controlled
  dogs, on crime scene dog development, on the use of a scent sleeve.
  Discusses seminars, Bloodhound misconceptions, testifying in court,
  commands, puppy profiles (how to select a puppy) and more.


J.  Sled Dogs.

My thanks to Stephen Lee for this section.

1. History

Prior to the formation of sled dog racing as a formal sport, sled dogs
were bred and used by native peoples of the polar regions of the world
in their everyday lives for survival in harsh climates.  Two dogs
commonly employed in sledding are Alaskan Malamutes and Siberian
Huskies.  These two breeds had quite different origins and uses.
Alaskan Malamutes originated with a group of Eskimo people known as
the Mahlemiut.  The dogs of that time were very large freighting dogs,
capable of pulling heavy weight.  The Mahlemiut people inhabited the
region in the upper part of the Anvik River in Alaska, and were spread
out over a large area.  The Mahlemiut people used these dogs for
hauling food back to the villages.  The gold rush in 1896 created a
high demand for these dogs.  On the other hand, Siberian Huskies
originated with the Chuckchi people of northeastern Siberia.  These
people had a Stone Age culture and used their dogs for a variety of
things, like herding reindeer and pulling loads.  These dogs were
smaller and faster than their Mahlemiut counterparts.  These dogs were
exported to Alaska at around the time of the gold rush.  Thus the gold
rush played a very important role in the development of our modern day
sled dog breeds.

Sled dog racing began as a formal sport with the first All-Alaska
Sweepstakes race in 1908.  Prior to this, Alaska's mushers had little
opportunity for recreation and they used their teams primarily for
work and transportation.  Rules for the races were established, and
they provided a good diversion to the difficult living conditions.  In
the 1920's, airplanes were gradually replacing sled dog teams for
transportation, freight hauling, and mail delivery.  In 1925, sled
dogs proved that they were invaluable during the "Great Race of Mercy
to Nome."  In Nome, an outbreak of diphtheria threatened to become a
fatal epidemic.  A 20lb package of antitoxin serum needed to be
relayed from Nenana to Nome.  Twenty drivers and more than 100 dogs
were recruited for the run.  Planes were ruled out due to extreme cold
(40 below and colder) and if the plane crashed, the serum would be
lost.  Serum was transported from Anchorage to Nenana by train.  The
drive was a success, the serum was delivered and lives were saved.
The drive covered some 674 miles in less than five and a half days.
This, along with the simple commemoration of the uses of the Iditarod
trail, is the origin of the Iditarod sled dog race.

2. Types of sled dogs

Naturally, most northern breeds were used as sled dogs.  Alaskan
Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, Eskimo Dogs, Greenlands, Samoyeds,
Norrbottenspets, and Hokkaidokens are all sled dogs.  However, lots of
different breeds of dogs have been and are used to drive sleds and
carts.

People use Irish Setters, Dalmations, Golden Retrievers, etc., to
enjoy mushing sports.  In fact, most modern day speed and endurance
mushers use mixed breeds (often Siberian crossed with Greyhound).  So,
if you do not have a "sled dog," but still want to enjoy the sport, fear
not, for most any type of dog can be used.  Mushing is fun, both to
take part in and simply to watch.

3. Mushing terms

Contrary to common belief, the word "mush" is not used to drive sled
dogs.  Mush comes from the French word "marche" which is from the
verb "marcher" which means to walk.  Undoubtedly, the French used this
during gold rush days.  The word "mush" is felt to be too "soft" a
sound to be used as a command.  Below is a short list of common
commands and terms associated with dog driving sports.

          Hike          : Get the dogs moving
          Gee           : Turn right
          Haw           : Turn left
          Easy          : Slow down
          Musher        : One that drives sled dogs
          Mushing       : The act of driving sled dogs
          Lead dog      : Dog that steers the sled dog team and
                          regulates speed
          Wheel dog     : Dogs closest to the sled
          Sled          : Wooden rig the dogs pull in the snow and
                          on which you stand
          Snowless rigs : Also called training carts.  Take the place
                          of the sled when there is no snow.

There are many other terms common to dog driving sports.  One book
that has a very good glossary in it is _Dog Driver_, by Miki and Julie
Collins.  See the references section for a complete citation.

4. Mushing equipment

The types of mushing equipment alone could cover many pages: only the
main points are covered here.  The references listed at the end of
this section provide additional information.

There are two main types of sleds -- basket sleds and toboggan sleds.
Basket sleds (also called stanchion sleds) are popular among sprint
racers and recreational mushers.  They are fast on glare ice and hard
pack trails, and are also good in high wind conditions.  They are
lightweight, and the basket is set high off the runners, which can
keep gear dry.  Toboggan sleds are more durable and stable than the
basket sleds, and they are capable of carrying bigger loads.  They are
more rigid and generally less maneuverable than basket sleds.  The bed
of the toboggan rides two inches above the snow.  These sleds handle
soft snow better than their basket counterparts.  Both types of sleds
are equipped with a brake, which is a vital item.  The brake is very
simple, consisting of a spring loaded wood plank attached to the sled
bed at one end and a metal hook at the other.  When riding the sled,
standing on the runners, one simply pushes down on the brake, driving
the hook into the snow.  It is an effective method of slowing and
stopping the sled.

So, which sled?  It depends on what you want to do.  Basket sleds are
lighter and more suitable for racing.  Racing trails are groomed and
hard packed for speed.  They can be used for longer trips and camping.
However, to carry more gear and run in softer snow conditions, a
toboggan sled would be better.  For the novice and/or once-in-a-while
musher, the basket sled is the best choice.  They are generally
cheaper and easier to learn on.

In order to have your dog pull the sled, it must have a proper
harness.  There are many, but two main types of harnesses are the
x-back and the freighting, or weight pulling harness.  For speed or
recreational mushing, the x-back harness is the harness of choice.
The harness is extremely important as it properly distributes the
weight of the load across the dog's muscular-skeleto system.  Of all
the components of mushing, the harness is the most important.  The
x-back harness is sometimes referred to as a racing harness, but it is
NOT strictly used for racing.  As long as the load is not too heavy,
the x-back is used for a wide variety of dog driving activities.  The
harness should should be padded around the front and fit the dog very
well.  Unfortunately, a picture is not possible, and without that, it
is a little difficult to visualize.  See the references for additional
details.

The weight pulling harness is used to haul heavier loads.  Therefore,
one would expect to see freighting harnesses used in conjunction with
toboggan sleds.  They are also used in competitive weight pulling.
They are similar to the x-back harness, except that they are
constructed to give the dog different freedom of movement and
different distribution of the load.  The freighting harness has one
very important feature that the x-back harness does not.  At the rear
of the harness, there is a "spacer", usually a wooden rod that is
about as long as the dog is wide.  While pulling heavy loads, the rod
is well away from the back of the dogs rear legs.  For recreational
mushers, this wooden rod can be somewhat irritating for the dog as it
will hit the back of the dogs legs when not loaded.  Consider what you
are going to do with the dog(s) before purchasing or making a harness.

The line that runs from the sled to the dogs is called a _gang line_.
They are simple to construct yourself once you understand their
function and geometry.  The gang line consists of three components.
The first is the _tow line_, which is typically 3/8 inch polyethelene
rope.  It connects to the sled and runs up *between* the dogs which
are hitched side by side on either side of the towline.  To this, the
_tug lines_ are attached.  These lines are typically 1/4 inch poly
rope and are "braided" into the tow line.  The tug lines attach to the
harnesses (which are on the dogs!).  The final component is the _neck
line_.  The neck line is also 1/4 inch poly rope and is braided into
the tow line.  The end of the neck line attaches to the dog's collar.
The dog does NOT pull from this under ANY circumstances.  The function
of the neck line is to keep the dogs close to the tow line, thereby
maximizing their pull strength.  When out on the trail, you always
want to have a spare gang line, as the dogs may break theirs, or a
tangle may become so severe that the line must be cut to free the
dogs!

The next component of mushing equipment is the snow hook.  The snow
hook is essentially an "emergency brake" for the sled.  When you stop
the sled, and must get off to untangle dogs or rest or something, you
can set the snow hook in the snow and it will hold the dogs (and
therefore the sled) in place.  They are remarkably effective.  They
are simple: a large, heavy, metal hook, weighing a couple of pounds
and about 12 inches in length.  These can be purchased from a variety
of places.  It is very important to attach the hook to the rear of the
gangline, not the sled.  A strong team of dogs can very easily tear a
sled to pieces if the sled is between the hook and the dogs.

The last pieces of equipment to mention are the sled bag and dog
booties.  The sled bag can be used to carry an injured dog or gear.
In an ISDRA sanctioned sled dog race, sled bags are a required piece
of equipment.  They can be made or purchased.  Dog booties are used to
protect the dogs feet from injury, particularly on long journeys.
They are typically used when mushing on rough ice, when mushing along
roadways where chemicals from de-icing can be present, or when driving
the dogs on a snowless rig on a hard surface.  Booties can be made or
purchased.

How about the cost?  Well, it varies, of course.  The numbers below
are typical.

              Sled      : $300.00 - 500.00
              Harness   : $15.00 - 18.00
              Ganglines : $10.00
              Sled Bags : $25.00
              Snow Hook : $10.00
              Booties   : $1.00 (per paw)

The references section includes the names, addresses, and phone
numbers of some outfitters that sell this type of equipment.

5. Skijoring equipment

Skijoring really only requires six simple components.  A skier (you!),
a dog (or dogs!), an x-back harness, a tow line, padded belt, and
cross country skis.  You MUST know how to cross country ski VERY well
to do this.  The harness has been discussed previously, there is no
need to discuss the skis, and the tow line is just that -- a line that
connects you to the dog(s).  This leaves the padded belt.  These can
be purchased or made.  The idea is that you put the belt on, attach
the tow line to it, attach the dogs to it, and go!  Some people prefer
to use a handle to hang on to rather than attach the dogs to them.
The handle can then be dropped if the dogs pull you into trouble!
Others feel that it is best to use a belt and execute a controlled fall
in case of trouble rather than risk having the dogs injure themselves
in a tangle when a handle is dropped.

6.  Weight pulling equipment

The name of the game here is truly the harness.  As discussed above,
the weight pulling harness is completely different from the x-back
harness, and THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE!  The weight pulling harness
has side lines that connect to a spreader bar at the hock, instead of
continuing up to the hips.  This is important, because a single dog
weighing 60 lbs may pull 2000 lbs!

7.  Other equipment

Many mushers have a wheeled cart for training in the fall prior to
snow fall.  In areas with insufficient snow, these carts are used in
competition.  These can be purchased or made by a good welder.  Carts
are a lot of fun, but are difficult to come by, they can be difficult
to control, and they go *very* fast with enthusiastic dogs.

Some people use pulks in the snow and carts in the summer to work
their dogs.  Carts are small "wagons" that are used to haul small
loads or children.  Pulks are carts for the snow (they are like small
sleds).  They are used to carry equipment.  Carts and pulks can be
made or bought.

8. Training the musher

Dog driving is not merely riding on the back of the sled issuing
commands to steer the dogs.  It is work!  If you start doing it in
earnest, you will pull muscles, fall off the sled and have to pull
yourself back on the runners with one hand, run yourself ragged
chasing after the team (because you fell off of the sled), run into
trees, and so on.  In addition to these things, a musher must "peddle"
the sled.  This too can be tiring since it is repetitive.  Peddling is
pushing the sled forward with one foot while riding the sled.  This is
helpful to the dogs, particularly when tired.  You may also frequently
get off to run alongside when the dogs are tired.  Therefore, to
successfully drive sled dogs, the musher must train his or her body as
well.  Conditioning of the musher is to a small extent a function of
the type of mushing to be done.  The key is endurance and flexibility
over muscle bulk.  Running, biking, cross country skiing and downhill
skiing are all good ways to build strength.  You must remember that at
all times, you are alpha.  If you are tired, hesitant, and uncertain,
your team will pick this up and become confused and unresponsive.
This can be particularly dangerous on longer journeys into the
wilderness.

It should be clear from this that dogs in a sled dog team must be very
well bonded to the driver.  Not only does it make training much
easier, but well socialized, well bonded dogs make a very good sled
dog team.  The dogs are looking to you as their undisputed leader, and
you and they work together as a *team*.  If you are careful to bond to
each of your dogs as individuals, and socialize them very well with
each other, other dogs, and other humans, your dogs will be willing to
do virtually anything for you.

9.  Training dogs to pull

There are many aspects to training dogs to pull.  Probably the most
fundamental is *start young*.  Get a puppy used to its harness, just
as you would a collar and leash.  Also let the puppy get used to
pulling things.  Start out with a small 2x4 (6 inches long) and let it
drag the 2x4 around behind its harness for a while.  The emphasis is
NOT on weight, just on having fun dragging a VERY LIGHT weight behind
it.  It is important to realize that one can injure a puppy's bones,
structure, and spirit by doing too much!